|
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
We have tried to make most of our tips humorous (so you will read them!) but this is serious stuff
and should not be ignored so that you are safe and informed!
and should not be ignored so that you are safe and informed!
-
WE HAVE NEVER, NOR WILL WE EVER USE A LEAD WICK!
If you would like to burn a lead wick- buy a foreign candle- they will be the cheap ones!
-
WE HAVE SPENT HUNDREDS OF HOURS TESTING OUR WAXES, WICKS, SCENTS, AND DYES
Now we have something for everybody and we are sure it is the best looking, best smelling, and cleanest burning
candle available! And pay attention to our burning instructions and warnings as they are they too are the result
of our never ending testing.
-
ALL OF OUR CANDLES ARE HAND BLENDED AND POURED
Like a chef in the kitchen there is an art to candle making. The extra time and effort of hand blending our wax,
fragrance oils and color is evident in the quality, beauty, and style of our finished product.
-
WE OFFER BOTH PARAFFIN AND NATURAL PALM WAX CANDLES
There are multiple waxes available on the market today because you demanded it! In response to this, coupled
with our research and experience, we have chosen to keep our traditional paraffin products and have added a
new line of Natural Palm wax candles. We chose palm over soy because it holds its fragrance better and because
we found it made a better looking, superior pillar. We call are purest palm wax pillar candle "Asaranatural".
It is made from 100% natural palm wax, an environmentally friendly, completely renewable resource, with a natural
It is made from 100% natural palm wax, an environmentally friendly, completely renewable resource, with a natural
cotton- hemp cored wick. There are no dyes or additives and the finished product has a beautiful off white
star-burst finish. The choice is yours and while you enjoy it, know that we have gone the extra mile to bring you a
candle that is fragrant, colorful, clean burning, and worth every cent you have paid for it.
- WE RECYLE WHAT EVER WE CAN- WHEN EVER WE CAN
We purchase environmentally friendly packaging and shipping supplies and when it is available,
-
NEVER, AND WE MEAN NEVER, LEAVE A CANDLE BURNING WHILE UNATTENDED
It is not only negligent but very dangerous, so do not do it!
- DO NOT USE WATER TO PUT OUT A FIRE, IT WILL SPREAD THE FIRE INSTEAD OF PUTTING IT OUT
Instead use baking soda and if necessary cover with a metal lid. Do not touch the lid until it has cooled down!
- THE LENGTH AND POSITION OF YOUR WICK IS CRUCIAL
Long Wick=Big Flame & Lots of Black Smoke! Keep wick centered and trimmed to 1/4" at all times.
To resize, first extinguish the candle and let cool down to the touch. Trim wick with scissors and if
necessary re-center wick while wax is still pliable by inserting a small flat object (like a paring knife)
alongside the wick and pull wax with wick toward center. Let it cool and solidify before relighting.
To resize, first extinguish the candle and let cool down to the touch. Trim wick with scissors and if
necessary re-center wick while wax is still pliable by inserting a small flat object (like a paring knife)
alongside the wick and pull wax with wick toward center. Let it cool and solidify before relighting.
-
PLACE CANDLES ON HEAT SAFE-RESISTANT SURFACE AND OUT OF DRAFTS
Not a test, I burned the top of a vanity, (now part of our test results) because I placed a glass container directly
on it. Containers, especially glass ones, get very hot so make sure your surface can take the heat. And watch out
for drafts around a burning candle. A draft will cause rapid and uneven burning leading to drips. If you ignore
this warning please see instructions above for re centering wicks, and below for clean up tips as you will need them!
-
NEVER LEAVE A BURNING CANDLE NEAR CHILDREN OR PETS.
There is to much going on with curious kids and pets moving around at lightning speeds.
For every bodies safety do not place candles any where near them!
-
BURNING TIMES FOR CANDLES
As a general rule, candles burn on average 7.5 hours per ounce. A candle should be burned for the same
number of hours as its diameter in inches. Our pillars are 3-4 inches in diameter so in theory should be burned
for only 3-4 hours at a time. You can break this rule (when burning our traditional round pillars) because our wax
blend is so good that they will burn continuously without dripping or breaking down by simply hugging the upper
edge as it burns.
number of hours as its diameter in inches. Our pillars are 3-4 inches in diameter so in theory should be burned
for only 3-4 hours at a time. You can break this rule (when burning our traditional round pillars) because our wax
blend is so good that they will burn continuously without dripping or breaking down by simply hugging the upper
edge as it burns.
When burning a container candle, you should be ready to let it burn at least as long as it takes to liquefy the
entire surface. If the diameter of the container is 5 inches, you are looking at at least 5 hours. If you only burn them
for short periods of time, your wick will create a hole that works its way down into the candle wax. Eventually
the wax wall will bury the wick and you will be left with a container full of wax that you can't burn. So if you
don't have several hours to spend with it, I would suggest burning a votive or floater which due to its
small size and diameter can be burnt and relit over and over again with out losing its ability to burn off completely.
-
PULL HAIR BACK & USE A SNUFFER TO EXTINGUISH CANDLES
If you blow the candle out, you may blow wax onto surrounding items as well as onto your self. For other items see
our clean-up tips. If you get hot wax on your skin don't try to rub it off, run the area under cold water and then
remove and treat. Hair spray is especially flammable so use caution if you have some in your hair!
Back to Top of Page
Back to Top of Page
Candles can be traced back to ancient times. In early Egyptian and Roman times candles
were wicked with branches or twisted cotton and were made from tallow-the solidified fat of
sheep and cattle. They replaced oil lamps but like the lamp they produced heavy black smoke
and a smelly odor. These early candles were used in religious ceremonies as well as for lighting
during travel and for lighting at home.
As is the case today, the light emitted from a burning candle comes when the heat of the flame
moves the wax up the wick where it ignites and burns off. Beeswax, perhaps the oldest natural wax
still in use today, was introduced in the 1600s and offered a cleaner burning candle that didn't drip,
smoke or spoil like the candles made from animal fat. But because it took 60 lbs of honey to produce
a single pound of wax only the very wealthy could afford this luxury. For this reason, the tallow candle
As is the case today, the light emitted from a burning candle comes when the heat of the flame
moves the wax up the wick where it ignites and burns off. Beeswax, perhaps the oldest natural wax
still in use today, was introduced in the 1600s and offered a cleaner burning candle that didn't drip,
smoke or spoil like the candles made from animal fat. But because it took 60 lbs of honey to produce
a single pound of wax only the very wealthy could afford this luxury. For this reason, the tallow candle
would be the dominant light source until the introduction of the gaslight in the 1800s.
It was in the 19th century that the art of candle making made its greatest strides. The introduction
of petroleum based products, braided wick and candle making machines led to the evolution of the
candle industry. At this point in time, paraffin was inexpensive to use and the possibilities were endless.
The candle markets exploded with affordable candles in every color, shape, and scent imaginable.
Recently as we have became more aware of the ingredients that make up the products we buy, and
there has been a shift in demand for more natural and environmentally friendly wax candles. Again,
the industry has responded with several alternatives, (soy, beeswax, and palm to name a few) which has
kept the candlelight flickering, a natural amber flame which has become a favorite traditional element
needed to make any old house an inviting home!
of petroleum based products, braided wick and candle making machines led to the evolution of the
candle industry. At this point in time, paraffin was inexpensive to use and the possibilities were endless.
The candle markets exploded with affordable candles in every color, shape, and scent imaginable.
Recently as we have became more aware of the ingredients that make up the products we buy, and
there has been a shift in demand for more natural and environmentally friendly wax candles. Again,
the industry has responded with several alternatives, (soy, beeswax, and palm to name a few) which has
kept the candlelight flickering, a natural amber flame which has become a favorite traditional element
needed to make any old house an inviting home!
-
KEEP CANDLES IN A COOL DRY PLACE
Candles are sensitive to light and will fade with prolonged exposure to any kind of light. Excessive heat will also
weaken the surface and can make the candle warp.
-
STORING TAPERS
Tapers should lie flat in a paper-lined drawer either wrapped or in the box they came in to protect them from
breakage or warping. Wrapped sets in tissue paper will help to keep them organized.
-
INCREASE BURN TIME
Wrap candles in plastic wrap or foil & keep in the refrigerator. Not only will this slow the burning process down
but by wrapping them you are also keeping the wick from absorbing moisture.
-
BEFORE A PARTY LIGHT AND EXTINGUISH YOUR CANDLES
They will be much easier to light when the time comes! - REMOVING LEFTOVER WAX FROM ITS HOLDER
Simply place in the freezer for several hours or over night and depending on the shape of your container, it will
drop out when you tip it over or you can pry/break it out using a small paring knife. You can also wipe the inside
of the holder with nonstick cooking spray prior to inserting the candle which works especially well with the
-
SPILLS ARE EASIEST TO REMOVE AFTER WAX HAS HARDENED
You can speed the hardening up by place the item in the refrigerator and then just brush the wax off
once it becomes cool and brittle.
-
REMOVE WAX FROM TABLETOPS OR FLOORS
First try to just scrap the cooled wax off with a plastic scraper or credit card. If this doesn't work, heat the area
briefly with a blow-dryer set at a low temperature. Then simply use the edge of the card or scrapper to
remove the warm wax.
-
REMOVE WAX FROM A TABLE CLOTH OR CLOTHING
Remove as much of the wax as possible by chilling the item. To remove the remainder, stretch area taut across
a colander and secure with a rubber band. Place in the sink and pour hot water from a tea kettle over the area.
The wax should liquefy and wash out with water. Many household cleaners will dissolve wax as well, but read
the instructions on the cleaner and test on a small area before using on the entire item.
-
REMOVE WAX FROM A CARPET
Again, once the wax hardens try to break off as much of it as you can. Then, place an old towel over the spot
which will absorb the wax once you press down on it with an iron set on low heat. Move to a new spot on the
towel until it stops absorbing the wax. If some remains you can then try a liquid carpet cleaner.
Back to Top of Page
Back to Top of Page